Hello again! I made some pretty snazzy teeth recently, so I thought I would do a little walkthrough for you guys. Detailed instructions below!
The teeth you see above are made from silicone, rather than dental acrylic. I chose to use silicone because my model was in Germany, and I did not have a chance to do a proper fitting beforehand. Dental acrylic (in liquid form) is also highly toxic and requires a huge amount of care (not to mention money, and time!) to do safely and correctly. The only drawback to the type of silicone dentures that I will be walking you through today is that they are a wee bit larger and bulkier than acrylic dentures. Figure out what will best suit your individual needs, and give it a go! 1) Here we have the teeth molds from my lovely model, Maria - direct from Germany! I sent her over the materials needed as well as instructions for the casting process, and luckily for me she did a fantastic job. To begin, I chip off any imperfections/ air bubbles, and clean up the area under/around the teeth. Try to keep as much of the gums in tact as possible, as this allows the appliances to better fit the actor. 2) Please, please - always take an extra copy of your teeth! Even with a strong gypsum plaster like Ultracal 30, one drop/chip/bump can have your teeth in pieces and totally unusable. I used alginate and a plaster bandage mother mold to make my negative, and Ultracal 30 to make the positive. 3) You need a strong (1.5cm + ) base for your teeth to sit on. I made mine by building walls in the shape that I wanted on a flat surface, sealing the gaps with clay and pouring Ultracal in carefull . I then gently set the teeth in, so they made an angle close to 90 degrees with the base. As we are working with hard molds, this angle will stop undercuts from occuring and allow our teeth to be as thin as possible. I also carve a few keys (circular holes) into my molds to ensure they will fit together properly with their negative halves, which will be made later on. 4) The fun begins! I use clay (NSP Medium, a wax-based clay) to begin roughing in the shape of my new teeth. Use small sausages to build up your shape, this will help to keep everything as even as possible. To ensure the correct shape I always had my original conceptual sketch as well as multiple 2D (paper/computer), and 3D (casts) teeth references nearby. Having a real 3D reference is especially important for understanding the contours of real teeth and gums - luckily you have the copies you made earlier to look at! 5) It’s important to sculpt both sets of teeth at the same time to ensure that they fit together well and won’t cause the actor any discomfort while wearing them. It’s also quite helpful to have the actor’s natural midline marked on the base - this will help to keep your teeth symmetrical, or if your design is unsymmetrical at the very least it will keep you orientated in amongst all of that clay. 6) With all sculpting work done, I cover the rest of the base in clay, except for a thin (3-5ml) gap around my sculpture and keys. This ensures a sharp cutting edge that will make the appliances thin and easy to wear. 7) After making a wall and covering my sculpture with Ultracal (at least 1.5cm above the highest part of the sculpture) I now have a positive and negative ready for casting! I tinted my one half of my two-part silicone with a small amount of light yellow greasepaint, before mixing both parts together. I then used a stiff brush to force the material into the contours in the negative mould, and also put a small amount on the positive mold which helps to avoid air bubbles. I then place the two halves together, pressing down firmly. Maintain pressure (easiest to do with a foot!) for around 10 minutes, then demold. 8) Yay! A great result. For a more realistic effect I decided to cast my teeth in two parts - first casting the teeth themselves in a white/yellowly tinted silicone, as you see above. 9) I then used a pair of cuticle scissors to trim away the excess gum area, placing the teeth back into the negative mold. 10) Next, I tinted a pink batch of silicone for the gums, and filled the remaining part of the negative up with it. You can also used a small amount of flocking in your silicone for a more realistic, intrinsic colouring. Press your positive and negative together, maintaining pressure as you did previously. 11) The final result! Casting in two parts (white, trimming, and then pink as above) means that your final paint job will look much more realistic. Clean up any edges with a pair of cuticle scissors - and you’re ready to go! Hopefully this has been helpful to a few people - please comment any questions below smile emoticon
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